How to Sew a Double Folded Hem – Complete Step-by-Step Guide

Introduction

In this short tutorial, Big Z Fabric demonstrates how to sew a double folded hem, a clean and durable edge finish commonly used in garments, costumes, home décor, accessories, and fabric crafts.

A double folded hem is created by folding the raw edge of the fabric inward twice before stitching it down. This hides the raw edge inside the fold, prevents fraying, and creates a neat finished edge on both the inside and outside of the project.

This technique is one of the most useful beginner sewing skills because it can be applied to many different projects, including skirts, dresses, pants, curtains, table linens, sleeves, pillow covers, cosplay pieces, and fabric panels.

Materials Needed

Fabric

Project fabric
Scrap fabric for practice, optional

Notions

Matching thread

Tools

Sewing machine
Fabric scissors or rotary cutter
Measuring tape or ruler
Straight pins or sewing clips
Iron or pressing tool
Seam gauge, optional
Fabric marker or chalk, optional

Project Overview

The video shows how to finish a fabric edge using a double folded hem.

The process begins by folding the raw edge inward once, then folding it inward a second time to fully enclose the raw edge. After pressing or securing the fold, the hem is stitched close to the inner folded edge.

The result is a clean, strong hem that looks polished and helps prevent the fabric from unraveling.

What Is a Double Folded Hem?

A double folded hem is a hem finish where the fabric edge is folded twice before being sewn.

The first fold turns the raw edge toward the wrong side of the fabric.
The second fold hides that raw edge inside the hem.

Once stitched, the raw edge is completely enclosed.

This makes the hem cleaner and more durable than a single fold hem, especially on fabrics that fray.

Why Use a Double Folded Hem?

A double folded hem is useful because it creates a neat and secure edge finish.

It helps:

Hide raw fabric edges
Prevent fraying
Create a clean inside finish
Add durability
Make the project look more professional
Keep hems stable through wear and washing

This technique is especially helpful for projects where the inside of the hem may be visible or where the fabric edge needs extra protection.

Step 1: Prepare the Fabric Edge

Start with a clean, even fabric edge.

Trim away any loose threads or uneven areas before folding. A straight edge makes it easier to create an even hem.

If the fabric is wrinkled, press it before starting so the folds are easier to measure and control.

Step 2: Measure the First Fold

Measure the first fold toward the wrong side of the fabric.

The width of the fold depends on the project. A small hem may use a narrow fold, while a larger garment or home décor project may use a wider fold.

Use a ruler, measuring tape, or seam gauge to keep the fold consistent.

Step 3: Press the First Fold

Press the first fold with an iron.

Pressing helps the fabric remember the fold and makes the next step easier.

Use the correct heat setting for the fabric. For delicate, synthetic, shiny, or textured fabrics, use low heat and a pressing cloth.

Step 4: Fold the Fabric a Second Time

Fold the edge inward again, using the same or desired hem width.

This second fold encloses the raw edge inside the hem.

Make sure the fold stays even across the entire edge. The cleaner the fold, the more professional the finished hem will look.

Step 5: Press the Second Fold

Press the second fold to hold the hem in place.

This creates a crisp edge and makes the hem easier to sew.

If the fabric does not hold a press well, use clips or pins to keep the fold secure before stitching.

Step 6: Pin or Clip the Hem

Secure the folded hem with pins or sewing clips.

Place them evenly along the hem so the fabric does not shift while sewing.

For delicate, coated, or thick fabrics, clips may be better than pins because they hold the fabric without leaving holes.

Step 7: Sew Close to the Inner Fold

Place the fabric under the sewing machine and stitch close to the inner folded edge.

Sewing near the inner fold keeps the hem flat and prevents the folded edge from lifting.

Use a straight stitch and sew slowly enough to keep the stitch line even.

Step 8: Keep the Stitching Even

As you sew, guide the fabric gently and maintain a consistent distance from the fold.

Do not pull the fabric through the machine. Let the machine feed it naturally while you guide the hem.

An even stitch line helps the hem look clean from the outside.

Step 9: Backstitch at the Beginning and End

Backstitch at the beginning and end of the hem to secure the stitching.

This prevents the thread from unraveling and keeps the hem durable through use and washing.

After sewing, trim the thread tails for a clean finish.

Step 10: Press the Finished Hem

After stitching, press the hem one final time.

Final pressing helps the hem lay flat and gives the project a polished appearance.

Again, use the proper heat setting and a pressing cloth when needed.

Final Result

The finished double folded hem should have:

A hidden raw edge
A clean inside finish
A neat outside stitch line
A flat, secure folded edge
Reduced fraying
A stronger finished hem
A more professional appearance

This hem finish is simple, practical, and useful across many types of sewing projects.

Tips from the Video

Fold the fabric edge twice to hide the raw edge.
Measure each fold for an even hem.
Press each fold before sewing.
Use pins or clips to keep the hem in place.
Sew close to the inner folded edge.
Keep the stitch line straight and consistent.
Backstitch at the beginning and end.
Trim loose threads after sewing.
Press the finished hem for a cleaner look.
Practice on scrap fabric if you are new to hemming.

Main Takeaway

This video teaches that a double folded hem is one of the simplest and most reliable ways to finish a fabric edge.

The main lesson is to fold the raw edge inward twice, press the folds, and stitch close to the inner folded edge. This encloses the raw edge, prevents fraying, and creates a clean, durable finish that can be used on garments, costumes, accessories, home décor, and many other sewing projects.