How to Sew Three Essential Hem Types – Complete Step-by-Step Guide

Introduction

In this tutorial, Blue Clarice from the Z Maker Program explains the purpose of hemming and demonstrates three of the most commonly used hem finishes: the double-folded hem, rolled hem, and invisible hem. Each technique is suited for different fabrics and applications, helping sewists choose the best finish based on durability, appearance, and fabric type.

Using fabrics from Big Z Fabric, the tutorial covers when each hem should be used, how to sew it correctly, and practical tips for achieving professional-looking results.

Materials Needed

Fabrics

• Big Z Premium Denim
• Big Z Chiffon
• Big Z Shiny Bridal Satin

Tools

• Sewing machine
• Standard presser foot
• Hand sewing needle
• Matching thread
• Fabric scissors
• Pins
• Iron and ironing surface

Understanding Hemming

A hem is a finished edge that prevents fabric from fraying while also allowing adjustments to a garment's length.

Besides protecting raw edges, hems also influence:

• The overall appearance of a garment.
• How the fabric drapes.
• The durability of the finished project.

Different fabrics benefit from different hemming techniques depending on their weight and intended use.

Method 1: Double-Folded Hem

The double-folded hem is one of the most common and durable hemming methods.

Because the raw edge is completely enclosed, it provides excellent protection against fraying while adding a bit of weight to the bottom of the fabric, which can improve the garment's drape.

Step 1: Fold the Fabric

Fold the raw edge toward the wrong side of the fabric and press it flat.

Step 2: Fold Again

Fold the edge a second time, completely enclosing the raw edge inside the hem.

Make sure the first fold remains flat and does not bunch inside the second fold.

Step 3: Sew the Hem

Sew close to the folded edge.

The creator prefers sewing from the right side of the fabric for a cleaner appearance, although sewing from the underside is also possible.

If sewing from the underside, be aware that the bobbin thread will become the visible stitching on the front, so matching thread colors is important.

Method 2: Rolled Hem

The rolled hem is commonly used for lightweight fabrics such as chiffon.

Its narrow finish creates a delicate edge while minimizing bulk.

Step 1: Prepare Extra Fabric

Leave a small amount of extra fabric beyond the desired finished length since some will be trimmed away during construction.

Step 2: Sew the First Roll

Instead of pressing the edge, roll the fabric over by hand.

Sew as close to the edge as possible.

Step 3: Trim the Excess

Carefully trim the excess fabric very close to the stitching line.

Because this edge will be enclosed in the next step, trim as neatly as possible.

Step 4: Roll Again

Roll the edge over a second time, enclosing the trimmed edge inside a very narrow fold.

The creator rolls the fabric while sewing rather than pressing it beforehand.

Sew slowly to maintain an even, narrow hem.

Method 3: Invisible Hem

The invisible hem creates a clean finish with almost no visible stitching from the outside.

Although sewing machines can produce invisible hems, this tutorial demonstrates the hand-sewn method.

Step 1: Prepare the Hem

Create a double-folded hem by folding and pressing the edge twice.

Pin the hem in place before sewing.

Step 2: Begin Hand Sewing

Insert the needle through the folded edge of the hem.

This hides the knot and starting stitches inside the fold.

Step 3: Catch the Outer Fabric

Take only a few threads from the garment's outer fabric before returning to the folded edge.

The key is to catch as little fabric as possible so the stitches remain nearly invisible from the front.

Step 4: Repeat the Stitch

Continue alternating between the folded edge and tiny catches of the garment fabric until the entire hem is complete.

Maintaining even thread tension helps keep the stitches hidden.

Common Mistakes

The creator demonstrates one finished section where the stitching is more visible because the thread was not properly flattened at the end.

Taking time to smooth and flatten the finished stitches creates a much cleaner invisible hem.

Tips from the Creator

• Choose your hem based on the fabric type and the finished look you want.
• Double-folded hems provide excellent durability and help improve fabric drape.
• Rolled hems work best on lightweight fabrics such as chiffon.
• Leave extra fabric when planning a rolled hem because the edge will be trimmed.
• Sew rolled hems slowly to maintain a narrow, even finish.
• For invisible hems, catch only a few threads from the outer fabric to hide the stitches.
• Match your thread color to the fabric whenever visible stitching is involved.
• Press each fold before sewing to produce cleaner, more professional results.

Final Result

By understanding the strengths of each hemming technique, sewists can choose the best finish for any project. The double-folded hem provides durability for heavier fabrics, the rolled hem creates elegant edges on lightweight materials, and the invisible hem offers a refined finish when visible stitching is undesirable. Mastering these three techniques provides a strong foundation for finishing a wide variety of garments and sewing projects.